Monday, February 25, 2008

Musing on Jamaica

I have always felt this place was magical. It has always been such a contrast with places I have lived before. I know that some evil stuff goes on; you cannot miss it in the newspapers and in casual conversations. But it is balanced by so much good that it almost disappears in the noise.

As Anthony Bourdain said during his recent visit here: "We all know there are magnificent beaches and resorts here." The real story is in the people. This is somewhat patronizing. It is absolutely possible that my life, distorted by good fortune, cannot allow me to see the truth. Bear with me, though.

The people here are a joy. They are clever. They are polite. They are musical. They are friendly. Despite the hot and beautiful surroundings they are industrious. Things get done, albeit at a slower pace than in the US. If you spend a little time with earlier posts you will get a sense of the people.

People struggle here, though. If one does not belong to the business class, day to day existence is difficult. There is a constant struggle with the issues of housing, food, clothing, spouses, and children. Despite that people generally face each day cheerfully and with grace. They do not seem, in general, to visit their troubles on each other.

In spite of the struggle there is a rising middle class in Jamaica. It seems to be based largely in Kingston, but it is seen in other towns as well. The middle class drives cars, eats out, buys apartments and houses. They live at a lower level perhaps than in the US, but they are an emerging power in the economy. You can tell it is happening when you see the traffic, the new bus station (really beautiful), and the new highways around the island. You can see it in the shops and in the evening entertainment. Many of the hotspots have covers of J$500, equivalent to roughly US$7. Add drinks and a snack to that and you have an expensive evening. Despite that, entertainment places are thronged.

I come here for a number of reasons:
  • To enjoy my in-laws
  • To enjoy the sun, sand, and mountains
  • To enjoy the music
  • To meet new people
These are things of value to me and I would like to spend more time here than I currently can. Real estate is quite expensive here, though. Living in Kingston is just as expensive as living in any other city. But this is the place where things happen; music, learning, industry, theater, and food culture all come together here. So here in Kingston is the place to be.

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